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Re: filmscanners: Acer Scanwit 2720s vs 2740s vs HP s20



Hi Jerry,

If these spots are in an area that can be isolated, and they are 
different enough from the rest of the area, you can do a few different 
things in Photoshop (I believe in LE also) to fix it.

I won't go into the details here, but if you are serious about it, I can 
probably tell you how to fix it.  Choices include rubber stamp (clone 
tool) which would be a long way around if there are a lot of these to 
fix, to using select color range and then hue/saturation (or other color 
adjustments) to using the magic wand and select similar and then lasso 
out the areas you don't want effected.

A lot depends upon how confined the dots are, how similar the color is 
to the background, etc.  The one thing about Photoshop is there are 
dozens of ways to accomplish similar acts, but each has unique benefits 
or hindrances.  After many years of using this program I am still 
discovering new ways to get places.

Art

Oostrom, Jerry wrote:

> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:        Rob Geraghty [SMTP:harper@wordweb.com]
>> Sent:        Monday, April 23, 2001 12:35 PM
>> To:  filmscanners@halftone.co.uk
>> Subject:     Re: filmscanners: Acer Scanwit 2720s vs 2740s vs HP s20
>> 
>> "Oostrom, Jerry" <Jerry.Oostrom@Alcatel.nl> wrote:
>> 
>>> If ICE would remove these spots, which are likely in the film itself,
>> 
>> well
>> 
>>> then that is all the more reason to buy the 2740s. It would be nice
>> 
>> though
>> 
>>> if you would have an ICE'  algorithm (FROSTY?) in which you could
>> 
>> specify
>> 
>>> which pixel colors should be regarded as dust. Although it would
>> 
>> probably
>> 
>>> work well on not too dense negatives only and not on dias.
>> 
>> You could try the salt and pepper filter in Paintshop Pro 7.
>> 
> 
>         Interesting, unfortunately, I don't have Paint Shop Pro or
> Photoshop without LE "extension". How do you fare with that filter on dust
> with negative scans where you leave ICE off?
> 
>       Jerry





 




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