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Re: filmscanners: Acer Scanwit 2720s vs 2740s vs HP s20
If these spots are in an area that can be isolated, and they are
different enough from the rest of the area, you can do a few different
things in Photoshop (I believe in LE also) to fix it.
I won't go into the details here, but if you are serious about it, I can
probably tell you how to fix it. Choices include rubber stamp (clone
tool) which would be a long way around if there are a lot of these to
fix, to using select color range and then hue/saturation (or other color
adjustments) to using the magic wand and select similar and then lasso
out the areas you don't want effected.
A lot depends upon how confined the dots are, how similar the color is
to the background, etc. The one thing about Photoshop is there are
dozens of ways to accomplish similar acts, but each has unique benefits
or hindrances. After many years of using this program I am still
discovering new ways to get places.
Oostrom, Jerry wrote:
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rob Geraghty [SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
>> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 12:35 PM
>> To: email@example.com
>> Subject: Re: filmscanners: Acer Scanwit 2720s vs 2740s vs HP s20
>> "Oostrom, Jerry" <Jerry.Oostrom@Alcatel.nl> wrote:
>>> If ICE would remove these spots, which are likely in the film itself,
>>> then that is all the more reason to buy the 2740s. It would be nice
>>> if you would have an ICE' algorithm (FROSTY?) in which you could
>>> which pixel colors should be regarded as dust. Although it would
>>> work well on not too dense negatives only and not on dias.
>> You could try the salt and pepper filter in Paintshop Pro 7.
> Interesting, unfortunately, I don't have Paint Shop Pro or
> Photoshop without LE "extension". How do you fare with that filter on dust
> with negative scans where you leave ICE off?