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     áòèé÷ :: Filmscanners
Filmscanners mailing list archive (filmscanners@halftone.co.uk)

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[filmscanners] RE: Filmscanners - is this about as good asitgets?


  • To: lexa@lexa.ru
  • Subject: [filmscanners] RE: Filmscanners - is this about as good asitgets?
  • From: "Nagaraj, Ramesh" <Ramesh.Nagaraj@ca.com>
  • Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 21:45:46 -0500
  • Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
  • Thread-index: AcLG+lWOBrk1mIyXQg2kK87PZ/2J9QARd9IQ
  • Thread-topic: [filmscanners] Re: Filmscanners - is this about as good asitgets?
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Here is the link for Fujis CCD with increased dynamic range
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0301/03012202fujisuperccdsr.asp


Ramesh

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Frost [mailto:bob@frost.name]
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 11:27 AM
To: Nagaraj, Ramesh
Subject: [filmscanners] Re: Filmscanners - is this about as good
asitgets?


Julian,

Fuji may just have come up with a solution to that problem. They are
reported to have a chip with a second layer of detectors under the first, so
that the second layer only detects the very bright light that saturates the
top layer. By merging the two they claim to be able to extend the dynamic
range of the image. Oops, I probably shouldn't have used the word 'dynamic';
I'm bound to upset Austin!

For the time being I am putting extra range in my prints from a D100 using
Nikon Capture. It appears that this program allows the exposure of the raw
file to be corrected by + or - two stops. So by running the raw file through
Nikon Capture three times (with normal exposure, overexp, and underexp) one
can layer the three images (without any of the possible registration
problems in doing this with a scanner) and paint in the extra detail into
the highlights and shadows of the normally exposed image. I dread to think
what Austin is going to say about this, but it seems to work.

Bob Frost.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Julian Robinson" <jrobinso@pcug.org.au>

Only one thing missing for me - my only doubt -- digitals record a scene
brightness range that is meant to be suitable contrast for printing, in
other words, a range of 4 to 6 or 7 stops.  This means they throw away all
the info outside that range.  As we have discussed before, I often
photograph scenes with greater range than this on negative film and
reconstruct and manipulate to get sufficient contrast from that.  So I will
photograph a scene with 10 stops range, and later bring the shadows up or
the sky back so the whole image then only has 5 stops range - i.e. the
image has normal aesthetically pleasing contrast.

How do you do that with a digital, until they offer a "wide range"
setting?  Such wide range images would look ugly unless processed.

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