Re: filmscanners: Best film for scanning with FS 2710

[Arthur Entlich <artistic@ampsc.com>]

Herm wrote:

> I use a lot of this film pushed to +3 stops..according to Kodak the resulting
> ASA numbers are 200 (normal), 320, 640, 1000. Even at 1000 it still has very 
>low
> grain (a bit less than a 400ASA print film), of course you have to be careful
> since it will not tolerate improper exposures at ASA1000. Pushed +3 its a good
> film for available light photography. Extremely fine grain when used at 200 or
> 320.

OK, now I'm confused.  I thought taking ASA 200 film up three 'stops' 
meant 200 to 400 to 800 to 1600 ISO/ASA. As I understood "stops" it was 
an additional f-stop.  I thought each "full" f-stop more open increased 
the amount of light reaching the film by a factor of 2, which was also 
equivalent to one shutter speed position lower.  So, if I had a 200 ASA 
film without any pushing, and the perfect expose was 1/125th sec at 
f/5.6, that I could also take this same image at either 1/250th sec at 
f5.6 or at 1/125th sec at f4.0 if I had the film push processed for one 
additional stop, and so on.

Instead, it appears, Kodak is claiming for some reason (reciprocity 
failure??) 3 processing pushes are not equivalent to full "stops" and 
therefore one push is at 340 ASA, two pushes are at 640 ASA and three 
pushes are 1000 ASA, for a maximum of 2.5 stops for the three processing 
pushes.  Can someone enlighten me on this?


> 
> Kodak also makes a consumer version of this film, called Elite Chrome 200. It
> also performs the same but I believe it reacts a bit different to +3 stop push
> (I'm not sure, perhaps a bit faster than ASA1000, slight color shift to 
>green),
> Kodak claims its the same film but not stored or aged for professional use. I
> use them interchangeably.

Since you use a lot of the pro version of this film, I have another 
question.  My wife has tried the Elite Chrome 200 on several occasions. 
  Each time she had it pushed (one push, shooting at 400 ASA) the 
results were variations of red shadows ranging from mildly pink, to 
downright ridiculous red Dmax.  Have you ever experienced this?  Could 
it be the film was damaged by heat or just a bad emulsion batch?

And, BTW, it does seem that shooting this film at ASA400 with one push 
is not a good idea, as her images were all underexposed by close to one 
stop in any shadow areas (almost like it wasn't pushed at all)...

Anyone with comments on the use of Elite Chrome 200 with pushing would 
be most appreciated (please use private e-mail if this is too off-topic).

Art