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Re: aliasing was Re: filmscanners: Review of the Nikon CoolScan 4000
I also would like to put a word of support for Nikonscan here. I use
LS2000 and Nikonscan 2.5.1. I have tried Vuescan but just can't get it to
do anything better than Nikonscan (EXCEPT reduce jaggies) so I continue to
use Nikonscan. There has been a lot of negative discussion about Nikonscan
- I really cannot see why people bag it so much. I get predictable output
and generally excellent colour 98% of the time from negs. I don't do much
slides, but they were fine too. I certainly get better results colour-wise
than I could ever get out of Vuescan, and VS was *much* slower.
I do agree that the jaggies is a real problem, and have not been impressed
by the results of my email discussion with Nikon USA about this. I am about
to send mine back for "repair" re jaggies - I have little hope but will
report how it is dealt with. (remember this is in Australia). I also have
troubles with focus depth of field, but that is not a software problem.
re the blown highlights / loss of sky detail comment, my technique to avoid
this is as follows...
IME NIkonscan default auto settings cut off too much at the high end (and
maybe the shadows end too), so I use the option - Scanner extras / prescan
mode / low contrast neutral. This means I get the whole range of a neg
into the histogram. At 16-bit there is no problem re-expanding it to get
the cut off at the actual tips of the white and black points, then I can do
whatever contrast enhancement etc I need in PS.
Not sure how this translates to the LS30, but I think it is still valid.
At 05:01 10/04/01, you wrote:
> > The detail in the skies tend to "blow out" in Nikonscan with the
> > it only works with 8 bit data - this has the side effect of reducing
> > grain in the sky. Unfortunately Nikonscan is useless for me since I
> > jaggies with it, so I have to use Vuescan. I may be able to
> > a little by deliberately adjusting the white point, but I don't want
> > lose too much sky detail.
>The trick with the LS-30 is to hardware calibrate your monitor
>(PhotoCal/Monitor Spyder is great, and not too expensive), set up
>color management in NikonScan using the supplied scanner profile, and
>use the excellent NikonScan curves dialogue to tone/color correct
>before scanning. You'll be outputting 24 bit files to PS, but the
>corrections are applied in hi bit space. Then, if need be, apply
>tweaks with an adjustment layer before printing.
>Nikonscan's CM works as well as possible, with a near perfect match to
>the result in Photoshop. Also Nikonscan does the best color
>corrections out of the box of anything I've seen, on chromes and negs.
>And, as I noted previously, the sharpening algorithm it uses is very
in usually sunny, smog free Canberra, Australia